Cantonese Steamed Eggs

Method

1. 1

   Beat the eggs with the warm broth and salt just until the color is even. Warm liquid, not hot, keeps the eggs from scrambling in the bowl. Strain the mixture into a heatproof bowl. The strain is what makes the surface smooth. Skip it and you will see bubbles and threads.

2. 2

   Cover the bowl with a plate or with foil poked with a few holes. Bring an inch of water to a simmer in a pot wide enough to hold the bowl on a rack, above the water. The water must not boil hard and it must not touch the bowl's contents.

3. 3

   Steam 12 to 16 minutes, until the center is just set and still quivers. A hard boil makes a honeycomb. If the top is bumpy, the water was boiling too hard. Lower it next time.

4. 4

   Pour off any watery liquid on top. Spoon on the soy sauce and the scallions. Heat the avocado oil until it shimmers and pour it over. Serve at once. It firms as it cools.

From the kitchen

• The ratio is about one and a half parts liquid to one part egg. More broth makes a soup. Less makes a stiff cake.
• Do not lift the lid in the first 10 minutes. The drop in heat is what sinks the center.