Cast-Iron Buttermilk Biscuits

Method

1. 1

   Heat the oven to 425°F. Put 1 tablespoon of butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and set the skillet in the oven while it heats.

2. 2

   Stir the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Grate the cold butter into the flour, or cut it in with a knife, until the pieces are the size of peas. Pour in the buttermilk and stir with a fork just until a shaggy dough forms. Do not knead it smooth.

3. 3

   Turn the dough onto a floured counter. Pat it into a rectangle about 3/4 inch thick. Fold it in thirds like a letter, pat it out again, and fold once more. This is the flake. Pat it to 3/4 inch and cut 8 rounds, or cut squares so you waste none. Press the scraps together once. Do not reroll them into a smooth ball.

4. 4

   Take the hot skillet out. Swirl the melted butter. Set the biscuits in, sides just touching. Brush the tops with the butter in the pan.

5. 5

   Bake 15 to 18 minutes, until the tops are deep gold and the centers are cooked. A pale middle means another 2 minutes. Serve hot, with the sausage gravy.

From the kitchen

• Buttermilk is the acid that wakes the soda. If you have none, stir 2 teaspoons of lemon juice into 3/4 cup of milk and wait 5 minutes.
• The butter stays cold until the oven. Warm butter makes a cakey biscuit, not a flaky one.